16 May, day 24, Antwerp Havenhuis, to Steenplein, waterbus to Kallo to Fort Liefkenshoek (12 km)
In the early morning, we had breakfast with the Port of Antwerp Bruges , I premiered the video impression of pur first ten days that we’ve made, and a presentation for their employees and our co-walkers. A quick tour through the office building and a guided tour from the port to Steenplein.
At Steenplein confluencing brielfy with Jan who walks on the other river bank, parallel to me, this week. Go visit Jan as well!
Mark from Natuurpunt Waasland showed us how they do their monthly fish monitoring for 14 years with low tide. Six eels they counted, usually that is one eel
Big contrasts today with the stretch of 25 km (!) of chemical industry in the background and huge cargo ships passing by. How we use the river and the estuary has changed dramatically.
With very new co-walker friends, we got afreshed, and the long co-walker group of Geert, Nikolaj, Dorien, Yannick, Mark and Herman was reunited.
15 May, day 23, events in Antwerp
Interview for podcast Moment of Clarity. A gathering about the role and potential of citizen science at University of Antwerp with Waterland and Capture. A community conversation hosted by Klimplant and Grandparents for Climate. They offered a community meal and a community screening of A long walk for drinkable rivers (film: Drinkbare Maas, Meuse à Boire. I was hosted by co-housing initiative Indruk.
14 May, day 22, Rupelmonde to Antwerp (21,3 km
And then we’ve suddenly arrived in the big city..!
We were with a big crowd today. 53 children of a school in Rupelmonde with 4 teachers, and co-walkers who helped us, we did the citizen science measurement. With the low tide and the mud it was too slippery to get down to the water. My host, Eddie went down with a rope and bucket to scoop out the water. Very precious became our bucket with water that we shared among the different groups doing each their measurement.
A group of guides from the Barbierbeek joined us, someone from tributary Zenne was there, and the alderman of environment and his wife, and two other people from the municipality of Beveren-Kruibeke-Zwijndrecht.
Also a class water management from Hogeschool Zeeland joined us with various teachers. Combining teaching, experience with joining our walk.
The Outdoor Swimming Belgium group joined and we talked about not being allowed to swim due to the rules, how can we reclaim and prepare ourselves to safely adopt the right to swim.
Again, a group of Esperanto speakers joined us with the value of walking for peace and connections.
And various other enthusiasts, we were with more than 120 people in total today who supported and showed we want a drinkable Scheldt, a river that is healthy and alive for all of us and all the larvae, fish, birds and plants.
13 May, day 21, Hamme to Rupelmonde (17,8 km)
We started with a group of children of a local school to do our citizen science. A small hand proudly reached out to me to show me this little slug.
After crossing the tributary Durme, we were welcomed by an environmental group Ons Streven (our aim/longing) who sang us a song Lichtjes van de Schelde (lights of the Scheldt) that they had adopted to fit our walk. Also, other environmental groups were there to join us like Natuurpunt. They showed us a Natura2000 protected field. In the shade, Dorien premiered her song for us about the untamed river.
Another hand showed me a Chickadee (meikever) and all kinds of stunningly beautiful pictures of wasps and flies that he had found by laying in this grass for hours. By paying attention and getting real close, we learn to see. Another woman who walked with us had just written a book about mud.
The deputy mayor and alderman of environment welcomed us when entering Temse. Also a journalist from TV Oost joined us to cover our story.
We had lunch together in the park and did a 10min river clean up challenge and collected waste.
Hosts from two years ago, who live here, joined us and pointed out a beaver home. Shortly after that, I saw a gorgeous Kingfisher flying by again.
Departing Steendorp and approaching Rupelmonde, Henry Mentink one of our co-walkers offered ceremonial waters with intention of love to the river, Yannick offered his feather ritual and we shared our closing circle about celebrating the ephemeral, and learning how to let go, how to honour and mourn.
11 May, day 20, Baasrode to Hamme – Drie-Goten (10 km)
We continued in the spirit of spawning finches from yesterday evening with the sunset in Sint-Amands.
We witnessed fish spawning in an area that will be ‘depoldered’ (with holes in the dyke) in the near future by Sigma plan. Likely fin or bream (winde of brasem) as the water is not yet connected with the Scheldt river (and thus the sea). Later, we witnessed eels (palingen) in Lippenbroek, a partly controlled flood area of 10 hectares with when the tide reaches higher than 4 metres. Thanks to our guide, Ilse de Vlieger, we heard a lot of interesting stories and clear explanations.
We confluenced several times with Nikolaj, from Denmark, who has been walking with us since the source. In Ghent he had to have a few rest days for an infected foot and since yesterday he’s back on the trail on his own pace.
At our end point, we were welcomed by Yvette, my host from three nights ago, at the information point to explain us more about Hamme, Sigma plan (the Belgian Deltawerken since the flooding in 1976), and the tributary Durme.
Now in the sunset enjoying the images echoing of spawning fish on Mother (Earth) day (and the perspective of a day rest tomorrow.)
10 May, day 19, Dendermonde to Baasrode (13,8 km)
Including a magical evening walk in Puurs-Sint Amands with Sun setting above the ‘slikken and schorren’, singing lesser warblers (kleine karekieten), spawning finches (paaiende finten) and interesting conversations with my hosts (and local guides ;-)).
It was an easy day with a short distance, starting with a group, making a harmonica to a smaller group. @doreenreymusic sang for us, the youngest co-walkers Wolf and Winter listened and later climbed the wall under the bridge.
The Marsh harrier (Bruine Kiekedief) was dancing the sky above us.
A group of 13-14 years helped me with the citizen science. Then, we took the second ferry across. Province East Flanders invited us for a guided tour through the shipwork (scheepswerf) museum. The founder of the museum, who is 30 years blind and almost 82, gave us an introduction to the indoor part of the museum. We learned about different ships and that at some point Baasrode was counting 8 shipworks.
Ilse de Vlieger who works for @demilieuboot showed me with her binoculars the spiralling spawning finches (finten, a kind of migratory herrings als called May fish) who are indicators of oxygen in the water. What a miracle and what beauty!
9 May, day 18, Schoonaarde to Dendermonde (16,3 km)
Koen, Peter, and Robbert from Regionaal Landschap Schelde-Durme, as well as Karel and Jurjen from Polder between Schelde and Durme explained about the low laying polder landscapes.
How pumps, on the one hand, keep the lands dry, especially in times of storm floods. And on the other hand, because of the dry sandy soils more and more people including farmers realise water has to be buffered and stay as long as possible in the landscape and not only flow into the Scheldt to Sea.
A meadow field with the compass of the nesting and wellbeing of lapwing and godwit birds (kievit & grutto) was shown and explained to me. A collaboration between Regional Landscape Park, the polder and 30 farmers.
We took the ferry across, a little further we crossed the Dender tributary and the confluence and its tidal sluice. Robbert showed us what usually is a wet grassland, but now in a very dry state. Under a layer of clay at 50-70cm depth, you can still find a layer of peat soils. The peat bogs store a lot of CO2. When the Scheldt was still meandering and flooding here, the peat layer was growing, now not any more. These 65Ha are now part of Wetlands for Cities.
In Dendermonde, we shared a local beer together, after all we’re in Dendermonde so it must be Friday night ;-)).
8 May, day 17 (incl 2 rest days, 1 event day), Melle to Schoonaarde (to my host ‘back’ to Wichelen) (25,5 km)
A selfie, to share it’s tough physically (feeling mainly my feet, no blisters, but the weight and the many kms), all the admin incl these messages typed often late at night on my phone, the organisation, and not many hours of sleep.
Yet it’s also so joyful that so many people join with their enthusiasm, their experiences and perspectives. It’s so rich.
In the morning, I could speak and share my story with 88 students from Melle College. Then, 35 children of 13-14 years and three teachers joined us for the measurement and walked the first kilometres with us. In our opening circle, we all shared what we are grateful for water. I could not fit the group in one picture during this circle, so I made three.
National Park Scheldevallei and Sigma plan people joined our walk today and shared about the activities, histories and vision for the landscape. They highlighted a field with a shallow canal dug dating from the 12th century, a landscape heritage. They explained about the tidal workings also of the freshwater tides in the tributaries. The tides welcomes unique species (like the spindotterbloem and the migratory herring fish (fint), who recently returned after being gone for several decennia.
We closed today with sharing our grief following suggested ritual steps offered by Appletree (one of our co-walkers).
The garden of my host is next to the Scheldt river. I could witness the sunset quietly on my own and reflect on all the experiences.
7 May, day 15, Zwijnaarde, Merelbeke, Ghent to Melle (24 km)
The first 7kms were only with three of us, was peaceful to be a moment with a small group. After that, we were welcomed by music from stadsknietjes and with tea. Later in the afternoon, we were welcomed by more music by Jetske and with lunch offered to Join for Water.
With a group of 35 people we continued walking. We shared about Ita Dori (Japanese knotweed) as we were seeing lots of it, we were talking about their dominance, their healing capacity, their edible delight in Japan and their holding the bedding and or attempts to maintain or control them. We made analogies of Mark’s host of ‘vrienden op de fiets’ who organised walks with people without jobs combined with people who just arrive in the country.
There was a group of Esperanto speaking people being attracted with our shared sense of being connected without (beyond) country borders. We shared about the commons and reclaiming what is important to us. A beautiful group with a tranquility to the day that we managed to sit in stillness along and with Water that is now in the tidal rhytmn. The salty waters are reaching us here. And as the Ringvaart had taken all the large ship, it was a small Creek again especially with low tides. The Scheldt is one of the largest tidal rivers, we witnessed today the furthest stretch of it.
I now stay at a very special college in Melle with 600 children, 280 children now sleeping around me in the dorms. It’s quiet, we’re a stonethrow from the Scheldt river. We met various previous and current headmasters and received a tour through the beautiful 1830s school with their special collection of owls, gifts from the world and skulls and bones. Caro van Eps, an audio artist from Colombia invited us to her audiowalk on water as walking along the Scheldt, perfect fit and inviting me for the first time to have a moment on my own with the river. My final moment with the river a Kingfisher flew in front of me across the river.
6 May, events in Ghent on day 13, city of the rivers Scheldt, Leie and Lieve.
Mayors, aldermen, deputy heads and other policymakers, scientists, local organisations from the three countries were present with some co-walkers in the historic building of North Sea Port.
We drafted the contours of an ‘Our Scheldt river intent’ that will be presented in a more evolved phase with the official launch of Mayors for a drinkable Scheldt on the 1st of October.
Capture with Waterland organised a event what from a science perspective needs to happen to reach a drinkable Scheldt.
With Hans from Dokano, we canoed through beautiful Ghent and did a river clean-up.
With @steinerschool9000 we did a measurement and were joined by alderman @filipwatteeuw and local TV AVS.
May 5, day 13, Zingem to Ghent (22,7km)
Early start to visit the Milieuboot, wonderful 30-year old educational boat teaching about water, aquatic life, water cycle and waste.
Then we did a measurement with two classes of 11-12 year old of the local school of Zingem/Kruisem.
Guides taking us to the diverse arms, we witnessed beaver tracks and some of the walkers saw a Kingfisher again. Semi wild horses roamed around. Where we ended, we received a tour through their research Labs. Capture organised an eventvbetween 12-15:00 tomorrow in Ghent.
We said goodbye to Nadia 20, Olga 16 and Danil 18 who have walked since Valenciennes with us. Very special to have these young people from Ukraine now living in Sweden join us.
At the final of the day I also briefly joined a process by Leo of Embassy of the Earth about the area of the Scheldt.
Again another very long day and now late….
3 May, day 12, (Maarkedal) to Oudenaarde to Zingem/Kruisem (21,6 km)
Two nice groups joined us, in the morning 8-10am and between 10-18.
Some of us started our day along the Maarkebeek with citizen initiative, the Maarkeerders, and their mayor. This stream is classified 3 in the Water Framework Directive, told Arne Verschueren bekkencoordinator of the Upper Scheldt. This means it will receive priorities in terms of time and money to get to a good ecological status.
We visited the old town of Oudenaarde and Ename with two guides who gave an in-depth context of the places. We learned that only since 1960 the river was moved out of the old town. Tapestry depicted images of wildlife in the waterways of fish and beaver.
Along the Zwalm, we learned about the inspiring process and agreed actions in the Zwalm River Contract. Despite not drinking Ename beer along the route, we were surprisingly treated with delicious local wine from Wijndomein Waes in Zwijnaarde.
At the end of the day, we were welcomed by the mayor and aldermen of Zingem/Kruisem. Leon Dhaene spoke as well, and Dorien sang for us.
2 May, day 11, Pottes (Celles) to Oudenaarde (confluence Maarkebeek into the Scheldt (23,7 km)
The children could not get to the river this morning, so I brought the river to the children.
Wonderful hosts welcome not only me, but also co-walkers into their home and garden. Here with dinner this evening and later picture our breakfast this morning.
Two naturalist guides in Wallonia identified all the different birds that were present in just a small stretch of reeds. Natuurkoepel, Natuurpunt welcomed us in Avelgem, where we had lunch and learned about aquatic biodiversity. Gazing at an ephemeral and dragonfly larvae, what a joy!
We passed a lactic acid factory doing a pilot to make plastics based on sugarbeet, which would dissolve in water.We learned about how a beton company and factory has been sold and will now get rid of all the beton and linked to the remaining green areas full of life and penetrable for water.
We left Wallonia and now entered Flanders. We feel and notice the more densely populated areas, more and larger industry. Luckily, there are the old meanders as disconnected arms in the landscape as refuge for wildlife and inspiring sites for us.
1 May, day 10, Tournai to Pottes (Celles) (24,4 km)
Another long, warm day along the canal and on the cement paves.
Happily our host from 29 april Francis offered to bring (parts of) our bags to our end point. Naturalist guide Edwige joined us until Pecq and Jan with Catherine from Eurometropool for the second part.
We learned how in a couple of years (3-4) 2/3 of the textile and flax industry had disappeared from the region. We walked a part along an old arm of the l’Escaut. We saw two kingfishers flying across this beautiful meander. Later, we walked along the siderivers Spiere, one of the tributaries that seems to be very polluted. I saw frogs and turtles living in there. Jan pointed out the powerless connecting this place with the two nuclear power plants that we will pass later.
We arrived at Ferme du Ruisseau, our home for tonight. For the first time, we had dinner together with 9 of the group. Our host had prepared homemade organic sourdough pizzas and salad.
30 April, day 9, Bléharies to Tournai (22,6 km)
Beautiful inspiration with Le passeurs de Mémoire.
Warm day with intense sun. Many very interesting guides who shared about the history of the places.
The strongest stones of the world come from this area. At one time there were 100 ovens here. Now, there are about ten remaining.
Two journalists came to join us. Our walking group dispersed at times. Children of @foyerculturelantoing sang a song for us, the voyagers.
Thank you Justine @jujustinequintin and Contrat de Riviere for organising this interesting day, our first day in Belgium Wallonia
29 April, day 8, Condé-sur-Escaut to Bléharies (18,9 km)
Can you see what’s France and what’s Belgium?
Today, we had our last kilometres in France. We’ve crossed the border in the middle of the little side stream Seuve / Seew. We played on the almost imaginary line, yet differences in the landscape show different policies and actions.
The whole day we were guided by excellent and interesting guides. Mathilde from Parc naturel régional Scarpe-Escaut, Francis the bird expert who was born and raised in this area and showed us 3 million years hidden fossils in the chists; Jean-Yves, and the cross-border collaboration with the two Parcs natural regional.
Grande merci pour la France: SyMEA, thank you Audrey, Marieand Benjamin, hosts, guides, teachers, children, all the side rivers we crossed, the old Escaut, all the people who had joined us.
Now we are in Belgium, Wallonia, local TV came to us at the confluence Scarpe with Escaut to the border. Our host Francis has welcomed all co-walkers in his garden and to take a shower which after a hot day was very rejuvenating.
28 April, day 6 of walking (day 7 of being on the trail), Valenciennes to Condé-sur-Escaut (21 km)
After a good day of rest back on the trail again.
My day of rest in the senior home apartment of Domitys has regenerated me. I had lunch with a 96 and 97 year old. We went canoeing on and swimming in Etang Vignobles, the canoe club run by Frederic and Nina offered this as a present to all of us.
Today, new walkers have joined our group, many of whom are camping. I feel so grateful for these co-walkers. I am never alone and the many experiences and impressions we receive are shared.
The l’Escaut is getting larger and larger and the bridges longer. It was our last day and now last night in France, tomorrow by the end of the afternoon we will cross the border into Belgium, Wallonia.
In France, I am also deeply grateful for SyMEA, for all the information, the contacts and the support in organising the riverwalk. In particular I am thankful for Marie and during the walk for Audrey. They have taken such good care of me and the co-walkers, it’s really admirable. They’ve adjusted their agendas to have full priority for our walk: “it’s a once in a lifetime opportunity” they told me. And I am happy to see that because of the walk they have made many new connections too. Like with Lycee de l’Escaut with who we did a citizen science measurement this morning.
Today, in an area also managed by Conservatoir d’espaces naturels (like the protected area near Proville) there was a lagune. We saw a gorgeous dragonfly, a roe deer running just in front running away from us and we witnessed the skillful work of a beaver. It’s past midnight already, so will need to prepare to get some sleep.
26 April, day 5, Denain to Valenciennes (19 km)
Today: diversity and contrasts in the landscapes as well as diversity in the group.
With Emma of perhaps 5 and later today Ambre of 10 to Yves of 95 years old. And some young people like Dominik, Aaron, Raphaël and others came by bicycle in 3-days from Middelburg to join us.
It’s a rest day form now, so taking my rest with a short story.
25 April, day 4, Eswars to Denain (22 km)
Huge willow tree along the river bank. Meeting sailing club teacher Guillaume in Bouchain, our colleagues for the Scheldt. As people who experience the Scheldt will grow love for her and thus nurture care.
Engaging with 12-13 years old doing our citizen science measurements. Asking them an important experience with water in their lives, one answering “doing these measurements”…
In our opening circle touching upon how do we integrate and balance the diversity of experiences, of both the positive and hopeful impressions with the negative and distressing impressions? Things that were shared:
“remaining open to the transformation. Remaining centred, true, to our inner vision. Economy serving life and people and not the other way around. Wonder. Empathy and sympathy, feeling with the other. Living with the paradox.”
After the circle, we said goodbye to the organic farmer Etienne and owner of Biocoop Cambrai Gerard.
Witnessing the water (and often pesticide) intense farming of potatoes causing erosion if no hedges are built around it.
We walked along the old Escaut bed with only a trickle of water flowing through and accumulated sediments compared to the canal water. A factory being built, with the promise of supplying jobs, but actually consuming a lot of drinking water for production process and discharging a lot of salty brine water to the wastewater plant of the municipality plus warm water of up to 30 degrees.
We caught a glimpse of the beautiful sideriver Selle whose obstructions have all been taken away to have continuous flow for fishes in line with the Water Framework Directive.
24 April, day 3, Cantaing-sur-Escaut to Eswars (17,5 km)
Old and new friends joined us. Yurii and Danil, who now live in Sweden, who are from Ukrain and who have walked along the Danube with us have arrived: very special! Local people who walk this round for 38 years joined us a few kilometres.
At the sluice of Proville, we were welcomed by the mayor and adjoint mayor of Proville. The mayor also came to the opening at the source, great to feel their support.
Our guide, Benoît from Conservatoir d’espaces naturels, gave us a tour around the 60Ha of protected area that is open 24/7 to the public. Here, we could experience the potential (and likely) the original quality of aliveness that this landscape can be. Our thoughts while walking the first two days of a rewilded canal combined with the river, we could see an example here. Benoît showed us an endemic flower that is now rare and on the list of protected species. This plant could be an indicator of these wetland areas. The spaces here are cooler and more damp. In Summer many people find refuge here.
We had lunch at le Marie of Proville. Did a measurement (unfortunately without the school children). In Cambrai we witnessed a maltreated sideriver Escautin burried in stones and trashed. In Cambrai, the second largest city along the Scheldt in France, we said goodbye to the river Escaut at the confluence into the Canal, from now it’s called Canal Escaut.
We passed Teleos a sugarbeet factory that had existed 150 years, a few years ago they spoiled detergents in the ponds that washed into the river and an ecological disasters of fish dying occurred. The factory closed on their 150th birthday. And now it will be replaced by an even larger potatoe fries factory. Very water intense, growing potatoes uses a lot of pesticide and every 2min large lorries will fill the roads…
At our end point, we were welcomed by three locals including the mayor, the owner of the organic shop Biocoop (my host) and an organic vegetable farmer. They organised a shared aperative with organic cider and apple juice. What a delightful closer of a very diverse day.
23 April, day 2, Bantouzelle to Cantaing-sur-Escaut (21,5 km)
Long walking day with rain and cold winds. Luckily, walking with good company, sharing interesting conversations.
The colour of the river has changed quite dramatically from the transparant source water of yesterday. Perhaps the rain takes residues from the streets and from the fields. There are many agricultural lands, and this area is one of the most intensely using pesticides, we saw on the pesticide map of France.
We learned that the groundwater contains too high levels of pesticide to make drinking water. Despite there being enough water, this area needs to import water in order to dilute this water to get it to norms to make drinking water. Is what we are seeing these chemicals (or better said this poison)? Well, the grey colour doesn’t look right.
Together with three French colleagues working for SyMEA, a branch from Agence de l’Eau doing research and measurements on the Scheldt, we do our citizen science. It’s towards the end of the day when the rains have stopped.
We witness the river going underneath Canal St. Quitin. We had dinner with the three technical colleagues. The mayor of Cantaing offered me a place to sleep, grateful.
April 22, day 1, Earth Day
An exciting moment, the start of our month-long drinkable Scheldt river walk in the source area.
With 3 mayors: of Gouy, Proville and Terneuzen, Port of Antwerp, consul of Belgium, technical experts, environmental organisations, 16 eight year children from Gouy school, their wonderful teacher, our team: Marie of SyMEA, Justine of Contrat de Rivières and Vincent of Terneuzen, lovely co-walkers and my special friends holding the space for our ceremomy. This Scheldt river family opened this 370+km walk along the Scheldt with talks, a toast with Scheldt water, and drums guiding us to walk in a lemniscate shape with our Scheldt river family.
We walked from Gouy to Bantouzelle 15 km. First, with a large group including the children, then the last 12kms with a small group of 4. At first, along the gorgeous gentle Scaldis (Latin name) and later along the straightened Canal Saint Quintin. The days of 100 perniche boats are over. Is it time to rewild this canal and make the landscape more adaptable to longer dry periods and heavy rainfall, making it more robust and resilient with climate destabilisation?
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